What size mini split do I need?
A ductless heat pump, sized per room or per zone rather than for the whole house. Enter your details and the answer appears with every step of the arithmetic shown, so you can check it against any quote you have been given.
This is an estimate from the standard industry rule of thumb, not an engineering calculation. For anything you are about to spend money on, have the figure confirmed by a load calculation.
How mini split capacity is worked out
The same roughly 20 BTU per square foot applies, but it is applied to the individual room the head serves rather than to the whole house. That distinction matters: people frequently size a mini split for their total floor area when the unit only conditions one room.
The calculation is shown step by step under the result rather than hidden behind the answer. That is deliberate: most sizing guides online are lead capture forms that give you a number and a phone call, and a number you cannot check is a number you cannot argue with when a contractor disagrees. Every adjustment is listed, so you can see what changed the answer and by how much.
Nothing you type is sent anywhere. The arithmetic runs in your browser, there is no form to fill in, and no one calls you afterwards. That is the whole reason this page exists — you should be able to what size mini split do i need without trading your phone number for it.
What going too big or too small actually costs
Mini splits tolerate oversizing better than central systems, because most are inverter driven and can modulate down rather than cycling on and off. But the modulation has a floor — usually somewhere near a third of rated capacity — and below that the unit still short-cycles and stops dehumidifying properly.
An undersized head runs at full output continuously, which is where inverter systems are least efficient. It also loses the quiet operation that is one of the main reasons to choose ductless in the first place.
Both directions cost money, which is why it is worth ten minutes to what size mini split do i need before you take a quote at face value. The asymmetry is worth knowing though: for most equipment on this site, being slightly under is a comfort problem you notice on a handful of extreme days a year, while being significantly over is a permanent efficiency and equipment-life problem you pay for every month.
Where a rule of thumb stops being enough
Every number on this page comes from the standard industry rule of thumb, and a rule of thumb is not an engineering calculation. The real method is a Manual J load calculation, which models your wall and attic insulation, your window area and orientation, how leaky the building envelope is, and how much your ducts lose. It routinely lands a size away from any square-footage estimate — in either direction, which is the part people forget.
So treat this as a sanity check rather than a specification. Ten minutes to size it properly tells you whether a quote is in the right neighbourhood, which is genuinely useful — it is enough to catch a contractor who has quoted you two sizes up because that is what was on the truck. It is not enough to order equipment from.
For a multi-zone system, the sizing question is harder than it looks: outdoor units have a minimum and maximum total connected capacity, and zones that rarely run at the same time change what the outdoor unit should be. Get a load calculation per zone before committing to the outdoor unit.